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The charming Pechersk Lavra should be on every visitor’s list. A vast network of underground caves, housing a former monastery and the preserved bodies of long-dead patriarchs. On foot from Arsenalna metro station: the deepest metro station in the world.
The caves are held in reverence by the locals and have a strict dress code (no shorts for men; women are asked to cover their hair). Avoid the hawkers touting miracle cures for physical and spiritual ailments on the way down. And watch out for dusty-bearded monks as you walk around in the dark. Their dresses aren’t exactly high visibility.
From a hospitality perspective, Kiev benefits from its multicultural nature and frequent business trips. For a hearty meal, look for any Georgian restaurant, whose food and wine is essentially the equivalent of the region’s Italian (head to Chichiko for a real treat). The Hyatt Regency’s rooftop terrace (around £ 200 per night) has a solid Western menu, as well as the best views in town.
For longer visits, it may be worth considering getting out of town. The success of HBO’s Chernobyl revitalized a cottage industry of day trips to exclusion zones. Or visit the lavish private estate of ousted President Viktor Yanukovych – now converted into a Museum of Corruption.
Lviv: the hidden gem
A rustic Austro-Hungarian hideout in western Ukraine, Lviv is a city of ethics rather than a tourist destination. Stroll through the romantic old town effortlessly and drink in the faded grandeur of ornate churches and Baroque facades. Make the locals happy by comparing it favorably to Krakow.
While not for everyone, Lviv has a weakness for quirky restaurants. The infamous Masoch Café is themed around the new S&M Venus in Furs, with live entertainment that would require an additional license in most EU cities. Kryivka, meanwhile, was designed as a secret bunker during Soviet times. A meal for two with drinks should stay on the safe side of £ 30.
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